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If it isn’t designated as an official “Pueblo Magico” (Magic Town), you might otherwise hesitate about visiting a Mexican border town, which is largely known for being dusty and laden with pharmacies.
We’re not saying there aren’t pharmacies on every corner, but we are saying that this magical city lives up to its charm and is far from the well-trodden hellscape you might imagine without further information.
Take it from me: I visit Mexico as often as I can, whether crossing from San Diego on foot or trading the cold waters of California for all-inclusives and endless sunshine.
In this case I visit Tecate at least once a year. It’s a textbook ‘hidden gem’, so accessible that sometimes the customs agent won’t even check your passport as you enter (but make sure you take it with you anyway).
Known as the gateway to wine country, while Baja’s popular Valle de Guadalupe serves as the ‘Napa’ of the region, Tecate is often overlooked as a mainstay – but not for this man!
I delve into what I think may be Mexico’s most beautiful hotel, perched atop a hill in an unsuspecting neighborhood, overlooking the rugged mountain backdrop of Tecate and home to one of Northern Baja’s most famous eateries, Asaowhere every dish is impossibly delicious, from ceviche to birria and more expensive items like steaks.
Santuario Diegueño alone, with an impressive Google rating of 4.7, Tecate makes it worth the detour, whether you’re sneaking out of SoCal for a day or continuing your adventure through the Ruta de Vino.
Welcome to Baja’s sanctuary
We’ve all seen the beer cans.
Yes, Tecate is home to the very popular cerveza It has the same name, but despite its boozy reputation, most people passing through are probably unaware of the extent of Tecate’s cultural heritage.
Santuario Diegueño is an ode to that heritage, as it is designed as a modern reinterpretation of the shrine that the Kumeyaay people celebrated in the region for centuries.
No, there’s no tourist traps or faux-tribal theatrics, but it’s a modern Baja retreat rooted in local stone, clay, woodwork, folk art and the staggering mountain backdrop that makes Tecate feel so unique compared to Mexico’s household names.
This thoughtfully designed oasis will cost you just $100 for a room all summer long and couldn’t be more inviting with its world-class restaurant serving up incredible views just as remarkable as its selective menu of handcrafted cocktails, sensational modern-meets-local cuisine, and of course ice-cold bottles of wine. Tecate.
I come here at least once a year, and I’ve never seen it so busy. There’s always a sun lounger open by the pool, there’s always a bar stool on the terrace where the photo above was taken, and there’s always fast service and no lines no matter what time you come – although you can reserve a table on Resy if you are an AMEX holder like me.
From Asao’s mountain-view terrace to the gleaming pool and the cultural touches featured throughout the property, like a living museum, it’s such an incredible place to unwind and enjoy a side of Baja that most travelers overlook.
However, no place is perfect, and this can be attributed to the fact that it never seems to attract crowds despite being breathtakingly beautiful.
It ties in with the infamous “wall,” which isn’t exactly the most postcard-ready photo.
That said, you barely notice it, but I get the feeling that’s why most people skip it, preferring to head deeper into the Valle de Guadalupe for more open space and on-site wineries, as the reputation of a ‘border town’ hasn’t done any favors to places like Santuario Diegueño, no matter how aesthetically beautiful they might be if they were built somewhere else.
Free Beer, local wine and small town charm
Being a Pueblo Mágico, the small town’s appeal is off the charts, especially the city center, buoyed by a timeless cathedral, old-fashioned hotels and a mix of old and new eateries such as matcha cafes and timeless taco restaurants that have stood the test of time.
Anchoring the cityscape, you can’t miss the bright red Tecate sign decorated with the enormous brewery that spans several blocks.
This should serve as your North Star, although Tecate surprisingly has Uber so you avoid the treacherous hills.
Best of all is when you visit the brewery beer garden, you get a free beer when you enter. Just know that hours vary, but even if you’re a Corona loyalist, no questions asked.
Being the gateway to wine country, you don’t have to brave the winding roads lined with wineries to enjoy a glass of the region’s famed wine.
My favorite place is Vinotecajust steps from the main square where the ‘action’ takes place – you know, souvenir trinkets, beer stands and the smell of bacon-wrapped hot dogs sizzling on the grill.
It’s part beer garden, part cozy wine spot, with largely shaded outdoor seating making it far too easy to stay longer than planned, as I did yesterday.
It offers everything from fruit wines to rosé and beer flights, so you can sample brews you’ve never heard of before. It’s a perfect quiet stop to enter Tecate without feeling like you’ve fallen into a tourist trap like in neighboring Tijuana.
