Kim Shui grew up in Italy. While for Americans it’s a vacation destination we’d love to dream of going to, for Shui it wasn’t all rainbows and butterflies growing up. Instead, the designer faced racism from her neighbors and classmates, marking a painful wound from her motherland. But today Shui is a CFDA/Fashion finalist and one of the next generation of American designers making their mark on fashion. She has a large celebrity clientele who wear her pieces, including Blackpink, SZA, Kiko Mizuhara and others. Tonight she recreated her version of Italy at Manhattan’s oldest Italian restaurant: Barbara. “I chose this space because of my Italian upbringing, to have that and to have the clothes in the setting and to recreate my version of Italy that I had in mind,” Shui said.
This was the most whimsical collection to come from Shui yet. In her dream world Italy, she found a perfect balance between her Asian heritage and mixed it with the La Dolce Vita lifestyle. Some pieces from the collection used mud silk, a sacred fabric in China, on more Western silhouettes such as corsets and fitted-waist blazers. Iterations of qipaos were made of lace and satin and had a revealing cutout at the chest.
While Shui designed last season for the girl who cared more about the Instagram moment, this season she also took into account the customers who want to buy investment pieces. Hemlines came in different lengths so that the party girl who wants to take the subway to the club can do so with more peace of mind. But of course it wouldn’t be a Shui collection if there wasn’t a shock factor. Bralettes were small and covered just enough not to attract a public lewdness charge in New York City, while lace trim covered everything necessary except the Kim Shui logo underwear. There was also a floral print dress for everyone, maybe even Jenner’s sister if they ever had another wedding in Portofino.
Shui’s work may not be for everyone. But one thing is certain: the people who love her clothes Love It. Her models always strut confidently, so those watching the show from the front row know what they’re missing.
