Yara Flinn is not someone who has great inspirations. “I don’t like to do a themed collection,” she said. “Fabrics are always where I start.” Still, she couldn’t resist adding a little Western flair, reduced to almost invisible. For example, a blue suit jacket had a subtle cowboy-style yoke, and fitted shirts and dresses were in textured gingham. Even fringes – the most striking embellishments – looked cosmopolitan when combined with thoughtful tailoring. However, the bandana-like necklines on a few cotton shirts were accidentally on theme. It was only afterwards that Flinn noticed how accurate that detail was.
The shirting in particular was strong this season. Flinn worked with what she described as a “sun-faded color scheme,” with shades of celery green, pale pink and light brown, creating many variations on wearable tunics and short button-downs. Fabrics are always crucial for Nomia: this season there was a set with floral brocade (although Flinn wouldn’t style them together; too jejune), a suit in recycled polyester, tightly woven cotton that almost has a technical feel, and seersucker.
Flinn adds a sporty carelessness to the pieces she designs. For example, when she makes a light pink striped cotton shirt, she trims it and adds a drawstring through the center. The tight-fitting jersey tops with long sleeves had hoods and drawstrings, making them suitable for work as well as sporty. Don’t be fooled by the Bermuda shorts; this was a collection for adults.
