Alexis Mabille presented a capsule of eveningwear in a mirror gallery in a passage in Paris. Founded as an intimate salon de couture, it provided a charming setting for the designer’s robes de soirée. Called Evening Essentials, it was a concise occasion wardrobe that Mabille’s high-flying, party-loving clientele will surely love.
“It retains an ésprit couture, but it has the ease and sleekness of ready-to-wear,” he said. Mabille is a designer with a natural understanding of French chic, which he treats with respect and a sense of humor. Here he softened the formality of couture eveningwear with a modern, uncomplicated twist that will appeal to his younger fans. The pieces looked elegant, yet effortless and versatile: a flowing chemise dress in pale pink taffeta had a roomy back (à la Watteau). It looked both inviting and comfortable and could also be worn as an opera gown. Similarly, an emerald green kaftan in matte and shimmering liquid satin can be tied at the waist with a sash or worn loose, flattering different body types.
Other, more form-fitting options, like a red Chantilly lace slip dress or a sinuous, dusty pink number worn under a matching embroidered bolero, had an ease that didn’t detract from their va-va-voom effect. as Mabille called it. Although he likes a bit of drama, there was nothing flashy or overtly bodycon in the collection – a rather décontracté way to approach eveningwear. Playing with bows, trompe l’oeils and pleated details added a touch of frivolity. But in the world of Mabille, the French flair for flirtatiousness goes hand in hand with easy, casual chic.
