Instead of fixating on a specific muse, as he has done in recent seasons, Huishan Zhang took inspiration from ’90s coming-of-age films for his pre-fall collection. He explained during a preview: ” I watched films like Cruel Intentions and 10 Things I Hate About You, and noticed that each character’s wardrobe reflected their personal growth.” The designer emphasized the importance of self-expression and his desire to explore the act of dressing young individuals during the transition to adulthood, as well as the point of view of adults embracing a sense of youthfulness.
As the designer showcased his versatility in creating daytime pieces, his panache for elegant cocktail wear came to the fore. This was reflected in denim sets adorned with crystals, sharply tailored broderie anglaise suits and neat tweed jackets adorned with frayed edges and ornate buttons. Lightweight neoprene was incorporated into a range of separates, including bolero jackets, tailored trousers and boned A-line dresses. Tulle dresses took the form of tiered polka dot dresses and mini dresses with floral embellishments and corset detailing at the bust.
Zhang also paid tribute to his Chinese heritage by incorporating cheongsam-inspired dresses, which were made of silk satin in a variety of intricate cuts, with couture-level piping and embroidery. There was an inherent lightness throughout the collection, accentuated by the choice of pastel shades, from baby blue to delicate pinks and lilacs.