Johanna Ortiz left her comfort zone for her fall presentation, trading the atmosphere of luxurious showrooms for the rarefied spaces of the Collège des Bernardins, a 13th-century Gothic building that was formerly a Cistercian college of the University of Paris. She went even further and showed a wider collection than usual in a mini parade, welcoming people in a spirited atmosphere with a vibrant DJ set. When asked if she would ever consider hitting the catwalk in the future, she did not dismiss the option.
The collection exuded a sense of ease; while Ortiz focused on handmade embroideries and bold prints of red poppies, she kept the silhouettes of her rugs fluid and sensual. A play of panels that transform into capes or scarves, bows and hip-hugging sashes, removable sleeves, fringes and ruffled inserts added a sense of movement and versatility. “A dress should be worn more than once and worn on different occasions,” she said. “It doesn’t have to be buried in a closet.”
As a female designer, Ortiz leads an atelier of 460 people, 80 percent of whom are women, and she knows a thing or two about respecting women’s bodies and celebrating their diversity. “We know our tricks,” she said. “We know what to hide and what to reveal, and how to enhance our best qualities.” Her flattering creations have a graceful, cheerful sensuality. “All bodies are beautiful, and I want women to feel beautiful in what I design,” Ortiz said. “For me, it’s all about celebrating the joy of being a woman.”
