In yet another seismic shift in the fashion world, Chanel announced Wednesday that Virginie Viard, Karl Lagerfeld’s chosen successor, was leaving the fashion house after five years as artistic director – years in which, while her collections were critically criticized and speculated, widely spread about her possible departure, sales exploded and reached almost $20 billion in 2023.
In a brief statement, Chanel, the world’s second-largest luxury brand, thanked Ms. Viard for nearly 30 years of service, “during which she was able to renew the house’s codes while respecting Chanel’s creative heritage.” No new designer was announced.
Ms. Viard, 62, took on the role of artistic director at a precarious moment, following the death of Mr. Lagerfeld, who led the brand for more than 35 years, in 2019.
Ms. Viard, an unassuming presence who avoided the spotlight, had worked side by side with Mr. Lagerfeld for decades and was his choice for a successor. He described her as his left and right arms, and her appointment brought a sense of continuity to a house that Mr. Lagerfeld had long dominated.
But despite annual revenues rising to $19.7 billion under her tenure – a An increase of 16 percent compared to the previous year — Ms. Viard seemed more like a concierge designer for the storied house than a change agent like her mentor, Mr. Lagerfeld. She toned down the theatrical performances he was known for, but her attempts to make Chanel feel younger often failed. Her runway signatures include bow ties, a variety of shorts and a penchant for ’80s silhouettes.
Ms Viard’s departure comes just a month after Chanel’s cruise show, held on a gloomy rainy day in Marseille, with guests including Lily-Rose Depp, Marion Cotillard, Sadie Sink and Tessa Thompson. It also follows a shake-up at Valentino, where Pierpaolo Piccioli, the house’s former creative director, was replaced by former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele in March, and comes in the wake of rumors that Hedi Slimane will soon leave his role at Celine .
Not surprisingly, almost as soon as Ms. Viard’s departure was announced, speculation began that Mr. Slimane or Mr. Piccioli could replace her.
“A new creative organization will be announced in due course,” a Chanel representative said in a brief statement.
Chanel’s next catwalk show, the couture presentation in Paris in June, will go ahead as planned.
